Corfu Trail

 

 

Day 9    Spartilas to Agios Spyridon       21km

Our last day of walking and it would be a challenging one. Our notes warned us to take plenty of water, that there is little shade in the first part of the walk and the first 9km is uphill.  Also today's temperature was expected to be 35 degrees.

After spending the night in luxury at the Pantokrator Hotel we were going to climb its namesake, the highest mountain in Corfu at 908m, before descending to the north coast and the trail's end at Agios Spyridon.

We were transported back to Spartilas and the Corfu Trail by our tour organiser Aperghi Travel.  We followed the yellow CT signs through the village alleyways before joining a rocky footpath where we paused to take in a wonderful view over the whole south of Corfu.

Back in Spartilas, which way?

We pause to take in the view

It's a long climb so Carole strides out

The view widens as we climb

The forest track is steep and hard going

... and covered with these large caterpillars

We emerge from the forest

Forest life

As the path levelled out we came to the ruined chapel of Taxiarchis. Since our first visit in 2008 we have seen this chapel and its frescos decline and now the roof is off and the elements are finishing the demolition job.  A great pity.  This is a link to photos of our first visit in 2008 where the chapel frecos can still be clearly seen.

Taxiarchis Chapel

We left the chapel and soon our path was heading upwards through dense vegetation.  We passed some big rocks to reach a gravel road.  Leaving the road we crossed several terraces by way of small stony steps, all the time watching for the yellow CT or blob of paint.  The Corfu Trail needs careful navigation and one can easily stray off the track.  The Portsmouth lads told us that on a couple of occasions they simply looked at their maps and headed for the destination using a compass, having lost the trail.

We reached an extensive flat area, the Karst plateau, and the top of the Pantokrator mountain and its masts came into view.

We reach the Karst plateau

Walking across the plateau

Hot and thirsty!

Our notes said to be very careful to stick to the trail as it is the only way off the plateau which is surrounded by rocky hills that are hard to climb.  It led us eventually to a road just beneath the summit of Pantakrator.  There is a cafe on the top but we decided to press on to Old Perithia for our stop.

We headed downhill on a gravel road and soon we could see our destination, Agios Spiridon, far below on the north coast.  Our track was rough with loose rocks as we descended and Old Perithia soon came into view.  Perithia was a more or less deserted village the first time we came but over recent years tavernas have opened and there is even accommodation to be had.  We stopped at the first taverna and cooled nicely with ginger beer and cake followed by coffee and water.  

The North coast in the distance

Old Perithia below

Taverna at Old Perithia

Ginger beer and walnut cake

We sat in Gabriele's Steps taverna until we were cool and refreshed and then headed out of the village on a distinct track.  We walked through dense vegetation, shrubs and eventually forest as we headed to the village of Krinias.

Leaving Old Perithia

In the forest

Arriving at Krinias

We walked straight through Krinias and continued our long walk to the coast.  We passed through Portes Village and eventually reached and passed by the rubbish dump with its bin lorries. We were now on an asphalt road and soon reached the north coast at Almiros Beach.

Pretty as a picture in Portes - except for sock burn

Official Corfu Train sign

Unofficial Corfu Trail sign

Northwards!

Almiros Beach

On reaching the beach we turned right and walked along the sea front with the sea to our left.  The track is mainly sand and it was very hot.  We came to a small bridge and a lake then an asphalt road for the last kilometre into Agios Spyridonas.  

A lagoon on one side of the bridge and the sea on the other

Also on the bridge is this sign signalling the end of the Corfu Trail

Where's the taverna?!

We walked in to Agios Spyridonas to the taverna on the front where the owner made a great fuss as we approached.  He shook our hands and congratulated us on completing the trail in a sort of unofficial ceremony.  It was a very nice end to the walk.  He then brought us large iced beers and bowls of crisps for our celebration.  We were very satisfied to have completed  the Corfu Trail again but sorry our adventures were over.

"To the Corfu Trail and all who walk it!"

The taverna keeper ordered us a taxi and we were taken to Kalami where we would spend four days for R and R.  Our apartment was on the beach and the White House restaurant, famous as Lawrence Durrell lived in the property at one time, would be a near neighbour.

We love this walk and highly recommend it.  Book direct with Aperghi Travel for the best deal.  Do it and you will become addicted to the Corfu Trail, as we have. The distance, the flora and fauna, the amazing views, the weather and most of all the people make this one of the best treks in the world.

We arrive at our apartment

The White House is next door

Dinner at the White House

Greek salad, White House style

 

To Day 1 

To Day 8